收藏: Differences between the US and UK models of leather jackets
The design and details of double riders jackets vary from brand to brand and period to period.
Among them, you may have heard the terms " US " and " UK.
Even if you are vaguely familiar with them, what is the difference between them? What are their roots? Some of you may not know the details.
In this page
History of leather jackets
・ Characteristics of American jackets as seen in " Schott"
・ Characteristics of long jackets as seen in " Lewis Leathers
We will explain about the following.
History of leather jacket
Zip-up leather riders' jackets first appeared in the late 1920s.
It is said that the first leather jacket was a flight jacket worn by military personnel at the time of World War I.
After World War II, soldiers and working class people who returned home after the war wore long, double-tailored leather coats when riding motorcycles in the city, and it is said that the length gradually shortened to make it easier to ride a motorcycle, and the riders' jacket was born.
Schott " had been making the PERFECTO model of leather jacket before that time, and it is said that it was around that time that the riders became popular around the world.
The biggest movement was triggered by the movie "The Wild One," in which the Godfather actor "Marlon Brando " played a role as a young man, and the outfit of wearing jeans, a T-shirt, and a leather jacket with a rider's jacket became established in admiration of it.
In this way, the leather jacket became greatly popular from the U.S. However, influenced by musicians such as "RAMONES, " British musicians also began to wear the jacket, giving birth to the British original form of the long john.
Characteristics of each US and UK
Motorcycles play a major role in the detailing of leather jackets, and the differences between American jackets and long johns have changed their shapes to suit the motorcycle culture of each country.
Characteristics of American-style jackets as seen in "Schott
"Schott" is probably best known for its one-star jackets, but I'd like to introduce an American jacket that doesn't have a star on it, the "618" model, which is a designer's personal item.
In the U.S., the style of riding was centered around the up handle often seen on choppers, with both arms spread wide apart. For this reason, many American jackets have "action pleats" to increase the range of motion of the arms. The "epaulettes" on the shoulders are thought to have remained from the military.
Most of them have belts and coin pockets at the hem, and are set short so that they do not get in the way when riding a motorcycle. The body width and arms are also influenced by the physique and are made wider.
In summary, "US model" are wide in body and arm width, short in length, have action pleats on the shoulders, and have a belt or coin pockets at the hem.
Characteristics of long johns seen in "Lewis Leathers
Lewis Leathers "SUPER MONZA"
We will introduce a long jacket using a vintage model called "SUPER MONZA," which is a designer's personal item made in the late 1970s.
The length is longer than that of the American jean, which may also be due to the style of riding leaning forward, and the adjustable belts at the hems are placed on both sides with small buckles to prevent damage to the tank. The adjustable belt is placed on both sides and the buckles are smaller to prevent damage to the tank.
In summary, the "UK model" is a little tighter, the length is slightly longer, the sleeves are three-dimensional front swing, and the hem adjustment belt is placed on the side.
As described above, the US model and the UK model evolved uniquely according to the local culture, but it is clear that the shapes of both evolved for the convenience of the time and have taken root as a design as well as functionality.
Today, leather jackets are not only for bikers and musicians, but are loved by many people as a fashion item, and it is one of the pleasures of choosing an item after knowing this history.
At STRUM, we are inspired by both of these cultures, so we hope that you will take a look at the details of our products and feel our commitment to them.
Which side do you think STRUM designers are in?
At my age, I am more of a UK model guy. I have simply loved things since I was a child, whether it be music or motorcycles, and I have always leaned toward the British side.
When I first started wearing leather jackets, I wore US model such as Schott, but as I came to know more about various cultures, I became a Ronjan fan.
However, as I myself wear various fashions, I also make and wear the US type with epaulettes and coin pockets.
Both types of jackets have their good points, and we sometimes make models that combine the good points of both types of jackets, so you may discover something new if you look at STRUM's leather jackets with this in mind.